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ICH Inheritor of West Lake Longjing Tea

Ge Weidong

 

A five-time winner of the Tea Frying King title, Ge Weidong has over 20 years of experience in tea frying. In his view, authentic West Lake Longjing tea requires not only an authentic tea-producing region but also adherence to traditional frying techniques.

Ge Weidong's family has more than 4 mu of tea gardens, and can usually pick about 160 jin of spring tea. His main task is to process the tea.

As a national tea, West Lake Longjing has a history of over 1,500 years. Its unique quality is due not only to its special geographical location and microclimate, but more importantly to its exquisite hand-frying and processing techniques.

In 2008, the "West Lake Longjing Tea Making Technique" was listed as a national intangible cultural heritage. Since then, in order to pass on this technique, Ge Weidong has taken on 3 to 5 apprentices every year. The taciturn Ge Weidong said with satisfaction: Now tea making has successors, and his several apprentices are all quite skilled.

Ge Weidong said that the key to tea frying lies in controlling the heat and technique.

Freshly picked leaves are usually placed in a cool, dry place for two hours before being stir-fried. The stir-frying process involves two steps: first, the leaves are stir-fried for about 15 minutes to kill the green, then left to rest for half an hour, and finally stir-fried again before being sold. However, each batch usually yields only about 3 liang (150 grams) of tea.

High-grade West Lake Longjing tea is entirely made by hand, constantly changing techniques in a smooth, specially made iron wok. The frying techniques include ten methods: shaking, patting, pressing, kneading, tossing, grabbing, pushing, covering, pressing, and grinding. During frying, the techniques are constantly adjusted according to the size and maturity of the fresh leaves and the shape of the tea leaves in the wok, requiring great skill. Only those who have mastered these techniques can produce West Lake Longjing tea that excels in color, aroma, taste, and appearance.

Controlling the heat and using the correct techniques are two essential elements for frying good tea. At the beginning of frying, the temperature should not be too high, maintaining around 200℃. The temperature should be gradually increased, and immediately reduced if it gets too high. The ten techniques must be performed in the correct order; the force should be applied skillfully, using force when necessary and less force when appropriate. Well-fried tea will have a vibrant color and a beautiful shape, resembling a flat, sharp sword, because the leaves gradually shrink during frying, and the tea leaves will not unfurl when brewed.

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